When people get into wood working, sooner or later they find they've made an ever so tiny mistake they need to cover up.
Now there are several types of wood filler, plastic wood, super epoxy resin mixtures with dye kits to match your work piece but I'll tell you a little secret, you don't need them.
All you need is at your feet, the sawdust created by you making your last master piece. The advantage of this is the colour and texture matches the work piece. I always keep an old ice cream tub with some sawdust in from the vac or dust pan. I use a kitchen sieve to filter out all the big nasty lumps, we want it to look like fine wood, not chip board.
Next mix a small amount of sawdust with your favourite PVA wood glue, mix it thoroughly to a gloopy paste that feels tacky between the fingers and use it to block up those nasty holes and mistakes. You can dust over the gloop with a sprinkle of neat dust. Leave it overnight to dry and hit it with a fine sandpaper and you have a mistake covered up.
So save the sawdust, and save some cash.
Showing posts with label carpentry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label carpentry. Show all posts
Tuesday, 13 August 2013
Monday, 5 August 2013
Workbench Workout
"Ask and it will be given to you, Seek and ye shall find" goes the saying and I'm living proof. I like to seek out stuff in my area on Freegle and also found a group on Facebook offering free stuff for recycling. I hit gold on this site and found a nice stack of oak panelling left over from the court house refurbishment in the historic town of Warwick. It was a nice find and I ended up with 100m of 20 to 25mm thick 3 or 4 inch wide panels. Sorry about the mix of units, but I'm English and that's how we roll sometimes.
- Free Wood!
I'd been using a Workmate as my main workbench for some years and was finding it playing havoc on my back as it was way too low for my 6ft 4in stature. I had a design for my new bench from, of all things, a book (Remember books?) but wanted to get it right for me. I threw a question out on twitter and got some great responses from @Archerfurniture and @Torch02 so decided on a height of 900mm. If it turned out to be too high I could always chop the ends of the legs off, but if it was too low it would be a bugger to raise.
Below is a photo of the old setup.
The idea was to make up two leg sections which I could connect by some cross members held in by through tenons and wedges, then attach a worktop I'd had donated by a neighbour who had a recent kitchen refit. The oak panels were tongue and grooved with a layer of paint of dubious origin and lead content on one side and a rough sawn finish on the other. Due to this paint I wanted to keep disturbing this to a minimum. I used my trusty band saw to rip of the edges and get a uniform width. These strips where then glued and screwed into nice 70mm square posts for the legs. I also cut some through dovetails which where sandwiched in the layers. this gave me two solid leg units. They were heavy too!
Now it was time to drill out and square off the slots for the tenons. The idea of using these joints was that I could lengthen or shorten the bench as time and space allows. The bench legs were put into position and locked up with the tenon wedges. When it was done it was solid.
The worktop was screwed on with simple brackets. The idea is to keep it removable in case I come across a bigger thicker top, but for now it will do.
And that was it. I had a beautiful, functional ready for anything work bench.
But what about a vice?
The original design had an apron along the front into which was a screw vice up one end. Most benchs I saw on the web had a setup like this. I could see the logic of it as the work would be clamped whilst the work was cut to size, but would it suit my needs. I scanned through a few old books on-line via Google books and spotted a really simple and neat idea for clamping work, a wedge clamp. This can be clamped on top of the bench to hold boards on edge for truing and for making tenons.
It can also be clamped over the edge to take wider boards with the aid of a bench hook.
Which brings me onto the bench hook design. I came across yet another video from Roy Underhill praising the simple bench hook although I went for a simpler design made from thick plywood glued and nailed. Using two thinner hooks about 2 inches wide means you can hold really long boards nice and steady for cutting.
The bench may be a little high but as I said above I can easily lower it. I will be making a Moxon vice which I can remove when not needed, that will be another blog entry.
So dear reader as you can see, you don't need to spend a fortune to get a really solid, useful bench.
Monday, 6 February 2012
The Saw Sharpening Tweetalong
Today I decided to have a go at two new things. One was to try and sharpen and old tenon saw I picked up at a local junk shop for £2 and the other was to do a "tweetalong" on Twitter while I was doing it. Here is the resulting tweets, videos and pictures of what happened.
@cobwobbler Today I'm trying two new things, a #tweetalong of me #sawsharpening . I've read the info & watched the videos, now its time to jump in. -11:17 AM Feb 6th, 2012
To expand on that a little the website I got a lot of information from was vintagesaws.com who have an excellent primer for the absolute beginner. And because I learn better by seeing I watched a useful series of videos on Youtube by Workshop Heaven. There are three videos altogether and worth a watch.
@cobwobbler #tweetalong #sawsharpening First I wanted a record of how blunt my saw was for comparison later. 1min = 1 inchhttps://t.co/wnExMZI3 -11:41 AM Feb 6th, 2012
As you can see it's a pretty blunt saw. After about 1 min 15sec I gave up, I'd cut just under an inch.


The vice jaws were cut from some chunky pine, I set a 20 degree slop with a pencil line and cut down to that with my trusty plane. No jig or guide needed, just wing it. As you can see it didn't take long. Sorry about the sound getting out of sync, not sure what happened there.


These lines were for guidance when stroking the file but you'll see later I was all over the place.


From the advice given on the sharpening primer mentioned above I made this little block to hold the other end of the file. You set the cutting face of the file to the line. The idea is if you set the saw level, using a spirit level, then try and keep the top of the block level you "should" be able to keep the correct rake angle.






Thanks for the plug Steve. This is the idea of a Tweetalong, getting people involved. I did have to think about "meat powered" for a moment.


Oh dear, this didn't look good at all. I had only done one side at this point but even so It wasn't too good. But that's the whole point of doing this, nobody is perfect the first time.


Oh dear, Oh dear, Oh dear! It was handy to see how much I was wavering about like a flag in a gale.


Well that's me done. I tried a test cut through the same piece of wood and cut through the whole 2 1/2 inchs in under 55 seconds, so I may not have done it very well, but it was an improvement.
@cobwobbler Well the #sawsharpening is done. It cut a lot better and it was worth recording before & after for a comparison. practice makes perfect. -2:35 PM Feb 6th, 2012
And that's the end of the tweetalong why don't you do a tweetalong next time you try a new skill. Or record your efforts for yourself on video so you can check for improvements.
Above all, have a look at some websites and videos and have a go, practice make perfect.
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